• 525 Pitch
• Choose your sprocket size
• 106mm Centre, 
• 125 PCD
• 6x 10.5mm Bolt holes

We as bike riders like to shop in two ways for a chain and sprockets.

We either

• Want to know what was on the bike without counting all the teeth, links, and having to read the manual, or
• We want choice

A bike comes out the factory with gearing suitable for most roads and most conditions, but it is always a balance. If you ride high speed roads all the time, or just go on a out on a country road blast, the requirements of the gears is very different.

If you ride track days or race, the variations will be even more important, more acceleration, higher top speed or maybe longer or shorter wheelbase; there are so many combinations.

Riders will often have a preference, but that may not suit you, so always feel free to try different gearing ratios- especially if you ride on the track. Your efforts won't be wasted, even if you find the +3 on the rear isn't quite right at Donnington; ithe sprocket will still be fresh, and you you can use it again, and may find it's perfect at Mallory Park.

Understanding Gear Ratio

The gear ratio, is the ratio of turns made by one gear compared to the other gear, when the gears are connected by a chain. An example of gear ratio will be with one gear of 10 teeth and the second gear of 20 teeth, giving a ratio of 2 (20/10=2). To calculate the ratio, divide the number of teeth on the rear sprocket, by the number of teeth on the front sprocket and the resulting number is your gear ratio.

GEAR DOWN. An example of this would be, that the bike is difficult to start in first gear and the clutch needs to be used more than you would like. You have plenty of top end speed, but need more slow speed control. The answer, might be to GEAR DOWN the bike. You can do this by adding more teeth to the rear sprocket or reducing the number of teeth on the front sprocket.

GEAR UP. The opposite situation, might be that the bike has lots of power, but is reaching the rev limiter in top gear and you would like to reduce the revolutions at a particular speed. To do this, you would need to GEAR UP the bike. By reducing the number of teeth on the rear sprocket or increase the number of teeth on the front sprocket.

Diameter of gear.

Each tooth added or taken away from a sprocket, will reduce the diameter of the sprocket by a given amount. For simplicity, you can think about 5mm change on the diameter, for each additional or reduced tooth. This will help understanding in relation to space requirements for gear ratio changes.

Chain length.

The addition of teeth to the sprocket, may require a longer chain or changing the position of the rear wheel, by moving that backwards or forwards. It will depend on the addition or subtraction of sprocket teeth. This can be calculated by considering the chain pitch. For simplicity, you can think about each chain link requiring 16mm length (actually 520, 525, 530 chains require 15.875mm per link to be exact). But the chain is going around the rear sprocket and the front sprocket, so the important number would be the change in diameter of the sprocket and not the chain length. An example would be to remove one tooth from the rear sprocket. This would make the chain more loose and to correctly adjust the chain, you would need to move the rear wheel backwards (away from the small sprocket) by 5mm. This movement would compensate for the change in diameter. Due to chain construction, it is not possible to remove only one link and it is neccasary to remove even numbers of links (2, 4, 6, 8 etc).

General Rules

• Changing the front by 1T equates to approximately 3T on the rear
• Reducing the number of teeth on the front has the a similar effect as increasing the number of teeth on the rear. And vice versa
• Reducing the front/Increasing the rear - Increases acceleration
• Increasing the front/Reducing the rear - Increases top speed
• On 520-525-530 chains, each tooth change will move the wheel back or forward by approx 5mm - changing by 3T would require adding or removing 2 chain links to keep the wheel in the same location
• Remember - a new chain will be shorter than the old one due to wear.

View our gear ratio chart below to see how adjustments will affect your bike

Work out where the standard ratios of you bike sits, then see what your desired combination will become.  The bigger the difference, the more the change.

Each kit is created with a pair of sprockets (View more on Supersprox here) and a DID , RK or AFAM.

• Standard Gearing* - This kit is available with either a selection of chains, please check the recommended CC to ensure it will suit your bike.
• Choose Your Gearing - This kit comes with a choice of front and rear sprockets, and a choice of chains from DID, RK or Afam.  Chains are always longer so you can adjust the length to suit your gearing or riding style.

To find your new sprocket kit, Click Here.  Where you can filter the available bikes to find that kits available.

If you don't need a full kit, you can also buy Chains and Sprockets separately.

Chain Length

Consider that you want a chain to fit the sprockets that you are purchasing.  If the bike takes a standard chain of 112 links, and you are increasing the sprocket by 3 teeth, its likely the original chain length will fit, although this will slightly shorten your wheel base, and you may want a 114 Link chain.  Most importantly, you can always shorten a chain, but you shouldn't ever lengthen it. Spending a couple of quid extra on a longer chain, saves you a lot against having to get another one.

As a result, any "Choose Your Gearing" kit, comes with a 120 Link chain to allow you to make adjustments as required.

If you know the size you want, choose your kit individually.

Looking for a guide on how to change your sprocket - see our friends at I Like Motorbikes video

*We check multiple sources to establish the original spec chain and sprockets, but unfortunately, we may not always be right.  If you buy a kit and subsequently find we have given you the wrong information, please contact us, we will replace any incorrect products for free; providing they are unused, under our 30 Day Returns Guarantee.  Some bikes (Especially KTMs) will come out the factory with a different chain and sprocket on the bike than is listed in the manual, we stick to what we know from manuals, manufactures info and our completion. If you find differently, please let us know and we'll happily research and correct our information where required.

Please consider which length of chain you require as we cannot be responsible for damage caused by poor fitment.  

If you have any questions or require something not listed, please contact us.